Swan Boats in the Middle of Nowhere -- Bandyamir

The most beautiful water I've ever seen.


And swan boats, of course.

up the next morning. first go to the un to check email. then head out. bamiyan is beautiful. the entire village is set at the foot of the rock face that once housed hundreds of buddhas.

the drive out to bandyamir, getting sick

the mine fields and arguing with heidar.

the bluest and clearest water i've ever seen. i can't believe it's real. heidar disrobes and jumps in. tries to convince me to go too. only a few people in the water, all men. all the women nearby are fully covered. obviously, i'm not going to swim. besides, i am not feeling well.

invitation to stay with the widower and take care of his family.

sicker by the time we're back; sleep the afternoon, argue with heidar over what to do; afghan remedies; fever. lots of vomiting, stomach pain, diarrhea -- certain its food poisoning; reheated rice from last night -- bacillus cereus? heidar watches over me all night.